The Fortnum’s Guide to Caviar
Popular belief has it that Fortnum's
has only ever sold luxury foodstuffs...
While this is not entirely true (carbolic soap was a best-seller in the 19th century), it is the case that the very best of the very best has featured on our shelves from the beginning. One of the world's oldest delicacies and the epitome of luxury in foods is, arguably, caviar, and the earliest reference of Fortnum’s selling it was in 1849, so our experience with ‘black gold’ is longstanding.
From being recommended as a suitable food for invalids in 1891 to becoming a keen part of customers entertaining commitments in the 1920s, the serving of caviar has, thankfully, become more educated and refined as time has gone on. The classic serving used to be on toast with a wedge of lemon (discouraged today), whilst at the same time, imaginative chefs at Fortnum’s introduced caviar pancakes. We would now recognise these as blinis. The caviar sandwich was also hailed a must have cocktail party hors d’oeuvres in the twenties.
As provisioners for many British assaults on Everest from 1922, Fortnum’s supplied essential luxuries to the mountaineers – including caviar. And this delicacy was not just reserved for Christmas either – it was thought of as a necessary all year round store cupboard ingredient, apparently. Rather wonderfully, we once had a caviar room in Piccadilly, overseen by a gentleman called Ernie Sanbrooke, who started at Fortnum’s in the 1920s, and remained with the company for over 50 years. He attained a level of celebrity along the way with a mention in The Tatler, April 1966...
"The food department at Fortnum & Mason is a legendary affair of tail-coated assistants, delicious luxuries packed in glass jars... You may pay more for your avocado pear...but you can be sure it will be a young lord of an avocado pear, nurtured since infancy and sold only when Fortnum & Mason think it's fit to be sold. They have a caviar expert called Ernie, who has been a caviar expert for 42 years. Under his eye they sell 35 to 40lbs of Beluga caviar each week"
Today, our exceptional fresh caviar is acquired from only the finest sources, as Laura King MBE, founder of King’s Fine Food, widely regarded and the UK’s leading caviar expert and our supplier of 22 years, explains, “the farms we source from are highly reputable and meticulous about what they do. We have very good relationships with them built on trust, with provenance and quality at the heart”.
Fortnum’s have always maintained a collaborative relationship with King’s Fine Food who we have worked closely with to explore new farms, new varieties and flavours, imparting their extensive expertise to guide us and only source the best caviar, carefully suited to our customer's palates. As a fellow Royal Warrant holder, King’s share our diligence for quality, provenance, welfare and sustainable practices. Laura goes on to explain that “King's are the exclusive supplier of Beluga caviar to the UK, and we go to great lengths to ensure consistent quality of all our caviars, including maintaining a caviar tasting book for each and every batch, for full traceability.”
Fortnum’s caviar is sourced from farms in Belgium, China and France. Historically, caviar was caught wild, and 90% of it lived in the Caspian Sea where only Beluga, Oscietra and Sevruga sturgeon were to be found. In 2008, wild caviar was banned by CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) and all caviar thereafter was to be farmed. “The first farms started about 30 years ago in America and then France. The biggest thing with farming is being very careful about the filtration, which is part of the cleaning process” explains Laura. “The meticulous preparation process starts with sorting, where the roe is carefully separated from the membrane and graded according to size, colour, firmness, and quality. The eggs are then gently cleaned in chilled water to remove any impurities while preserving their delicate structure. The roe is lightly salt cured using the traditional Malossol method, a low-salt technique that enhances flavour and prolongs freshness without masking the caviar’s natural character.”
As our conversation with Laura continued, there was much to discover and learn about caviar…
Where does caviar come from?
Caviar is the salt-cured eggs, or roe, of the sturgeon fish of the Acipenseridae family. Sturgeon caviar is prized for its rich, slightly salty taste and smooth, creamy texture. Because wild sturgeon are protected, true caviar now comes from responsibly farmed fish raised in very large aquaculture or ponds.
There are 29 species of sturgeon, but only nine produce caviar. Beluga sturgeon take up to 12 years to mature, Oscietra up to 10 years, and Baerii between six and eight years, and it’s this maturation that accounts for the higher price tag associated with caviar.
The sturgeon is also a royal fish, so if you find one swimming in The Thames, however unlikely that may be, you are to tell the Royal Family!
What are the characteristics of high quality caviar?
Great caviar tastes subtle, creamy, and elegant — not overly salty or fishy. Appearance, texture, aroma, flavour, and freshness all contribute to the quality of caviar.
Appearance: glossy, shiny eggs, uniform size and color, with whole and separate eggs
Texture: the eggs should feel firm but delicate and gently pop against the palate
Aroma: fresh caviar smells clean, marine and slightly buttery or nutty
Flavour: a balanced, low salinity with a rich umami depth. Buttery, creamy, nutty notes with a long, clean finish.
Freshness: minimal liquid in the tin, a cool temperature and intact eggs
The taste must be clean and vibrant on the palate, and should have no smell, no salt spots and not too much oil. The size of the egg is important, particularly with Beluga – you want something that’s 3.3mm or above.
How should you taste caviar?
Always taste caviar on the back of the hand, so nothing impairs the taste. It’s not only practical but theatrical too - luxury foods such as caviar should always be accompanied with a little theatre! Use a mother of pearl spoon or horn, never use metal or gold plate because it oxidises and taints the caviar with a metallic taste. You want a cleanness and for it to linger on the back of the palate.
Why is the mouthfeel of caviar so important?
The mouthfeel of caviar is one of its most prized qualities and plays a major role in the overall tasting experience. High quality caviar should feel smooth, delicate, and buttery on the palate, with each pearl remaining firm enough to hold its shape before gently bursting in the mouth. This subtle “pop” releases the caviar’s rich oils and complex flavours gradually, creating a clean, creamy, and slightly briny finish.
Mouthfeel is important because it reflects the freshness, handling, and quality of the roe. Eggs that are too soft may feel mushy or watery, while overly firm eggs can seem dry or overly salted. The ideal texture strikes a balance between firmness and tenderness, allowing the caviar to deliver both flavour and sensory elegance.
Is there a universal grading of caviar?
There isn’t a universal or officially regulated grading system for caviar, however, the “000” rating associated with Beluga refers to the size and visual quality of the roe, with the triple zero indicating the largest and typically most prized pearls. Each zero signifies the three most important traits of caviar – size, colour and flavour and texture.
Size 0 – notably larger eggs
Colour 0 – a light, luminous shade (lighter hues are much rarer)
Flavour and Texture 0 – firm yet delicate eggs with a clean, smooth and buttery taste
How should you store caviar?
Caviar should be kept beween -2 and -4 degrees. As close to freezing as possible without actually freezing it. It should always be stored towards the back or bottom of your fridge to avoid temperature fluctuations.
Unopened Tins: keep in the coldest part of the refrigerator, usually at the back or on ice
After Opening: consume within 1–3 days
Never Freeze: this can damage the texture and flavour
Perfect serving suggestions for caviar?
Caviar served simply is best: rapped in a softly boiled egg is delicious. Caviar on a warm blini with crème fraîche on top is equally delicious. On a Jersey Royal potato, fabulous.
Caviar is very good with butter – buttered pasta with a dollop of caviar on top and mixed in is absolutely amazing. Served in a jacket potato too… a favourite of a certain member of the Royal Family!
And trust me on this one, caviar atop clotted cream ice cream and a layer of gold leaf is a dream! Saltier varieties like Aquitaine or Sevruga caviars work best, along with Imperial as it’s a bigger egg and a slightly stronger taste profile.
Avoid serving it with chopped egg, onion or lemon juice – they are overpowering and will destroy the caviar.
Ideal drinks pairings for caviar?
It’s no surprise, but Champagne is absolutely the best thing to drink with caviar. The saltiness of the caviar works perfectly with the acidity and bubbles of Champagne.
Vodka is another popular choice, known for its palate-cleansing qualities.
King’s Fine Food proudly donate 10% of all profits to the John King Brain Tumour Foundation, a registered charity supporting the Atkinson Morley Wing of St George’s Hospital, Tooting, to treat brain and neurological disorders. To date, King’s have raised £1.5m.
'Caviar needs no occasion, it is one.'
George Bernard Shaw
Caviar Available at Fortnum's
Age of Fish: 12 years
Age of Fish: 8 - 10 years
Age of Fish: 8 - 10 years
Age of Fish: 8 - 10 years
Age of Fish: 5 - 6 years
Age of Fish: 8 years
Age of Fish: 8 - 10 years
Age of Fish: 8 - 10 years
How Else You Can Enjoy Caviar at Fortnum's
Our adventures in caviar don't stop with our tins which are available online of course, but our Lower Ground Food Hall in Piccadilly is also home to our entire collection of fine caviars, and in true Fortnum’s style, our packaging teams have made sure the tin is just as exquisite as its contents, with Swarovski crystals adorning the lids. If you can’t do it on a caviar tin, where can you?
From breakfast boxes to Caviar Tea experiences, peruse the many ways you can enjoy caviar at Fortnum's...
Unique to our range is our Caviar Tasting Quartet. The first of its kind, this tasting tin contains four different types of caviar: Golden Oscietra, Oscietra, Platinum and Beluga. A perfect introduction or sharing indulgence.
Perfect for beautifully indulgent weekend mornings, our Caviar Breakfast Box contains Oscietra Caviar and Fortnum's Brut Reserve Champagne NV alongside a host of delicious breakfast items. There’s no better welcome to the weekend than this.
Caviar and crisps, yes, you simply must try it to believe it. Perfect for sharing with friends, a little (or a lot) of our Aquitaine Caviar atop our much love Patatas Fritas crips is a most moorish mouthful if ever we saw one.
Whether enjoyed as part of a celebration or simply just because, this perfect pairing will give any good double act a run for their money. Delicious and indulgent in equal measure.
Made to be savoured on its own or as a prelude to one of our Afternoon Teas, our Caviar Tea experience offers a choice of Golden Oscietra or Beluga Caviar, served atop mini crumpets, and with a pot of Fortnum's Famous Tea for company. Come and enjoy one of life's greatest indulgences in our famous Tea Salon.
On the menu of our fresh bagel counter, you can really push the lunchtime boat out with our Push The Boat Out bagel, home to the utterly delicious combination of cream cheese and our Baerii Caviar. You’re welcome.
Whilst there will always be a place in our heart for the classic cheese and baked beans jacket, this recipe will elevate this most humble yet heart-warming suppertime dish to new delicious heights. Chef-approved, a royal favourite, so we’re told, this is a must try.
Inspiration
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