Otto Lucas

Otto Lucas was an important part of Fortnum’s design history, and was once regarded as the ‘most financially successful Milliner in the world’, until his drift into relative obscurity after his death in 1971. One of his creations is the only example of his work we have in our archive, and showcases his creative flair and characteristic use of flowers. The inside also reveals the beautiful shade of pink it would have been originally. So, without further delay - and with a helping hand from our Fortnum's archivists - we are going to take a look at the work of Otto Lucas.

Lucas was born in Mülheim an der Ruhr, Germany in 1903 but moved away to hone his craft in Berlin and Paris. He eventually settled in London in 1932, where he opened a shop at 11-12 New Cavendish Street. Lucas remained there until 1935 when he relocated to 87-91 New Bond Street, complete with an extensive workshop of dedicated craftsmen and women. He was a firm but fair employer, and hired those who excelled in their chosen craft to undertake the work, including blockers (making hat blocks), modelistes (designers) and milliners (who created and finished the pieces). He had an eye for design and was considered to have exceptional taste and, with a love of experimenting with colour, materials, and shape, the business thrived under his leadership

The unmistakable artistry involved in creating his couture line (which could take up to eight hours per headpiece) heightened his fame and allure for international buyers. These buyers who had previously ignored the city now descended upon his salon and his designs were sold in Australia through David Jones and in New York at Saks Fifth Avenue, in addition to displays and exclusives sold in London department stores such as Fortnum’s and Harrods. Indeed, his popularity in the USA from his first foray in 1941 was so great that he undertook two showcases at the New York Plaza hotel per year. In fact, due to his determination to establish his London salon (and the city in general) as a centre for fashion and encourage buyers from North America to London opposed to Paris, he sent invitations and chartered a special place to bring American clients to his showroom. We could even go as far to say that the growth in the British fashion industry from this period owes Lucas a debt of gratitude.

To get a feel of the effort and skill that went into making each hat, take a look at the 1958 film by British Pathe entitled Heady Stuff which showcased Otto Lucas’ workshop and showroom. Many items featured looks very similar to our new archival piece, with flowers adorning creations and various bucket shaped hats. It even features Fortnum & Mason’s Piccadilly windows displaying his hats sold in store.

Lucas’ private clients included Greta Garbo and those who we know shopped at Fortnum’s, such as Wallis Simpson. He also trained many milliners counting Frederick Fox and Philip Somerville, who would later become milliner to Queen Elizabeth II. However, it was not only the very wealthy who could afford his designs as he sold diffusion lines at lower cost through larger department stores. These would use cheaper fabrics and simple designs, often for rainwear, and included his junior range. Therefore, he was designer most women would have known of and could aspire to wear.

He also achieved the distinction of his eye-catching creations featuring fourteen times on the cover of British Vogue from 1955-1968.

Not much is widely known about his private life, because as a gay Jewish man, at a time when society was less accepting, he kept a low personal profile. What we do know is that he was fond of the opera, had a good sense of humour, loved champagne (Fortnum’s, we hope!), and in addition to his residence in Montpelier Place he stayed at Hush Heath Manor at the weekends where he would gather friends and burn old hat blocks in the fireplace! He was also briefly interned for three months on the Isle of Wight at the start of WWII due to his German nationality and frequented the exclusive Colony Room Club in Soho. This was a private members club which opened in 1948 and became a haven for the artistic elite of the day, including Francis Bacon, Princess Margaret, and another famed Fortnum’s designer Jean Muir.

Lucas’ life ended on his way to see the opera onboard a flight to Salzburg in October 1971, which sadly crashed in Belgium with no survivors. All those who worked for, and with, him remembered him fondly and at the time of his death it was reported he had created over 55,000 designs in his lifetime. When you next see the hats currently instore hopefully you will remember Lucas and think of those customers who would have bought and then worn his creations on their next visit.