Can you tell us a bit more about the new fragrances in the collection: Orange Peel, Tangy Rhubarb and Rose Blush?
Marie: Orange Peel took a long time to perfect as it required striking the
right balance between the juiciness of the fruit and the bitterness of the rind.
We used natural orange together with the orange molecule Sinensal, which acts
like a booster for orange and really makes it last, preserving a lovely zesty note
all the way to the bottom of the fragrance.
Nicolas: We also worked with warm woods and clary sage to add elegance
and refinement. Our wonderful rhubarb fruit extract gives things a unisex
quality and adds a hint of bitterness that works so well for marmalade.
Marie: With Tangy Rhubarb, we started with a rhubarb accord, featuring lemon
top notes to really push the juiciness. The heart has a lovely yumminess and
addictive quality that’s underpinned by sophisticated musk and cedarwood in
the base. It’s this tension between the top and the base notes that really makes
this fragrance. It’s masculine as well as feminine, tart as well as juicy, and has a
wonderfully playful, unruly quality.
Nicolas: We did a lot of work on the texture of Rose Blush, really trying to tease
out that transparent jelly effect. This was quite challenging, because with most
extracts of rose you get something a bit honeyed and even a bit spicy, which can
translate as quite old-fashioned. We worked hard to make our rose petal-fresh
and added a hint of basil leaf in the top notes for a green, herbaceous twist.
How would you summarise the new fragrances in the collection?
Celine: For me, Orange Peel is all about the balance of bitterness and sensuality.
Tangy Rhubarb is unexpected and a little bit wild, but so very wearable. Rose Blush
is dewy fresh with a characteristic Jo Malone London twist.
What can you tell us about the two other scents in the collection?
Celine: Elderflower Cordial is a beloved fragrance that has been brought back
from our previous Sugar & Spice collection. It offers a wonderful contrast between
powdery elderflower and tart gooseberry; it’s delicate, fruity and so very English.
Blackberry & Bay is our fruity hero. At the beginning of the development journey,
we hadn’t actually thought to feature it in this collection, but it soon became
apparent that it was destined to be the core fragrance.
What was it about Blackberry & Bay that makes it the perfect core fragrance for the collection?
Celine: Scent Pairing is definitely part of it. It’s also a fragrance that has always
been about jam-making, born from childhood memories of picking blackberries and
simmering them on the stove. But it does effortlessly pair with all the other fragrances: Orange Peel adds juiciness and zest, Tangy Rhubarb brings a striking tartness and tang, Rose Blush develops a fresh femininity and Elderflower Cordial elevates the florals. You’ll notice that apart from Blackberry & Bay, all the other fragrances in the collection only have single ingredient names. That’s partly an homage to single ingredient jams, but it also encourages you to use each fragrance in combination with another. They all have a perfect Scent Pairing in Blackberry & Bay.
Did you learn anything new when working on The Marmalade Collection?
Marie: Using the fruit extract process was something quite new. We felt like kids
in a toy store when we discovered we had this new material to play with, which is
a really rare feeling in perfumery.
Nicolas: Thanks to the fruit extracts, we were able to create fruit fragrances that
were unique, addictive, but not too sweet or sticky. This felt like a new way of working and we’re all really proud of the results.