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Anna Jones' 'One: Pot, Pan, Planet'

 

We talk to Award-winning cook Anna Jones, as she blazes the trail again for how we all want to cook now: quick, sustainably and stylishly with her latest book and she shares her Fortnum's Favourites.

In this exciting new collection of over 200 simple recipes, Anna Jones limits the pans and simplifies the ingredients for all-in-one dinners that keep things fast and easy. These super varied every night recipes celebrate vegetables and deliver knock-out flavour but without taking time and energy.

 

There are one-tray dinners, like a baked dahl with tamarind-glazed sweet potato, quick dishes like tahini broccoli on toast, one-pot soups and stews like Persian noodle as well as one-pan fritters and pancakes such as golden rosti with ancho chilli chutney.

 

''This book is a celebration of food, cooking and togetherness; of the principles that ground how we live, cook and eat; of showing love to those we hold dear, to our communities and to ourselves.''

 

One brings together a way of eating that is mindful of the planet. Anna gives you practical advice and shows how every small change in planning, shopping and reducing waste will make a difference. There are also 100 recipes for using up any amount of your most-eaten veg and ideas to help you use the foods that most often end up being thrown away.

 

On her latest book, Anna says, ''When I started writing this book in late 2018, the world was a different place. But now we are at a turning point, in a moment of crisis and great opportunity. The events of 2020 have proven that collective action can lead to radical change, both in ideology and behaviour, and I hope that we can move forwards armed with the knowledge that a different world is really possible. Many of us do not want to go back to the old patterns. This is a chance to be part of the urgent shift that needs to happen, especially helping to slow climate change.

 

My books have previously been gentle in their approach to putting plants at the centre of your tables. And while food and cooking, for me, are absolutely about the joy and the connection and beauty of sharing a meal, I feel now it’s time to stress the changes we need to make. I want to make it clear that how we eat can actually help to shift the world we live in.''

 

Read on to find out Anna's Fortnum's Favourites and three delicious recipe from the pages of One - using ingredients from our Food Halls, they are perfect for al fresco feasting this spring.

Anna's Fortnum's Favourites

 

Countess Grey Blend

‘‘My all-time favourite tea. I am a lover of citrus with almost anything. This tea is my the perfect blend of heady floral bergamot and subtle zingy orange which make for a light, bright cheering cup of tea. I drink a few cups of this a day. I travel with it in teabag form, it makes me nervous to be without it.’’

 

 

Blanc de Noirs Champagne

‘‘To me this is the perfect champagne, toasty with subtle honey notes. I first tried it last year while judging the F&M Food and Drink Awards and I have not stopped thinking about it since.’’

 

 

Welsh Heather Honey

‘‘This honey is my kind of honey, rich and flavourful, the heather really comes through. I love this spread on hot buttered toast in the morning but also for lunch with soft gosts cheese. in fact, this honey works really well in the goat's cheese and fig galette recipe above. I love the wilds of wales and this conjures up those landscapes.’’

 

 

Lilliput Capers

‘‘Capers are one of my most used ingredients in the kitchen and these little Spanish ones are some of the best I have tasted. They bring their characteristic saltiness and punch to so many dishes. I use them to add punch to my Salsa Rustica and Roasted Carrots and they are fried until crisp to top my Slow Roast Tomato Pappardelle. ’’

 

 

Genmaicha Tea

‘‘This brown rice tea is a favourite, the toasty, almost caramel notes of the roasted grains of brown rice are such a perfect contrast to the verdant brightness of the green tea leaves. I love to drink this in the afternoon for a mellow pick me up.’’

 

 

Salted Caramel Milk Chocolate Florentines

‘‘My perfect sweet treat. I give boxes of these as gifts (sometimes to myself). I was only supposed to choose 5 favourites but I could not leave these out.’’

Recipes from the Book

 

Fig, Thyme & Goat Cheese Galette

 

''I think my favourite smell is fig leaf. There are a few heavy-leaved trees in parks and gardens near where I live and when I pass, I stop to scrunch then sniff the leaves. Local bakers pick them for custards and ice creams. I make this galette with hazelnut pastry and a caper and herb goat’s cheese filling.

This is a pretty tart. I make it with a couple of substantial salads for a summer lunch for 6; with a green salad it would serve a hungry 4. Roasting the figs will bring out their jammy nature so you can get away with using them lightly under- or over-ripe here.''

 

SERVES 4–6

 

FOR THE PASTRY

25g hazelnuts

225g white spelt flour or plain flour, plus extra for dusting 125g very cold butter or vegan butter, cubed

 

FOR THE FILLING

300g soft goat’s cheese or vegan soft cheese

1 teaspoon honey

a small bunch of thyme or oregano, leaves picked

3 tablespoons capers

a small bunch of parsley, leaves and stalks roughly chopped

the juice and zest of 1⁄2 unwaxed lemon

extra virgin olive oil

8 figs, sliced

1 organic egg, beaten, or a splash of plant milk

50g hazelnuts, toasted and chopped

 

TO SERVE

some lemon-dressed salad leaves

 

First, make the pastry. Put the hazelnuts into a food processor and blitz until you have fine crumbs; be careful not to overdo it, as they will turn into a nut butter. Add the flour and half a teaspoon of flaky sea salt, then pulse a few times so everything is evenly mixed.

 

Now add the butter and pulse again until it looks like breadcrumbs. Then, with the motor running, add 2–3 tablespoons of ice-cold water one tablespoon at a time until it comes together to form a ball of dough. Remove the dough from the processor, flatten into a rough disc, then wrap in a clean tea towel or baking paper and place in the fridge to chill for half an hour.

 

Preheat the oven to 220°C/220°C fan/gas 7.

 

Using the same food processor, add the goat’s cheese, honey, the leaves from 4 sprigs of thyme or oregano, capers, parsley, lemon juice and zest to the bowl and blitz for a few seconds until creamy and flecked with herbs and capers. Season with some black pepper.

 

Once the pastry has chilled, remove from the fridge and line a large baking tray with baking paper. Drizzle some olive oil into the centre of the paper.

 

Roll out the pastry onto a floured surface to about 30cm round and 1cm thick, turning it as you roll to make sure it stays circular. Roll it up onto the rolling pin and carefully transfer to the prepared baking tray.

 

Spread the goat’s cheese mixture onto the pastry, leaving a 4cm border to fold over later. Top with figs, being generous as they’ll shrink in the oven slightly.

 

Next, fold the edges of the pastry over the figs to hold them in, brush the edges with the beaten egg or plant milk, then season all over with salt and pepper.

 

Bake in the oven for 45-50 minutes until golden, scattering over the 50g of chopped hazelnuts for the last 5 minutes to toast. Cool on the baking tray for 10 minutes, then top with the remaining thyme or oregano leaves. Serve with lemon-dressed leaves.

Crispy Caper & Slow-roasted Tomato Pappardelle

 

''A bowl of tomato pasta is pretty much my favourite meal. It’s often thought that having people over means you have to make fancy food. Not true. Almost everyone will breathe a sigh of relief when a massive bowl of pasta thuds onto the table. This tomato one takes some beating, thanks to roasting them until sweet and the level up of crispy fried capers and marjoram.''

 

SERVES 6

 

2kg mixed cherry tomatoes (I like a mixture of colours)

1 head of garlic, peeled (about 14 cloves)

1 red chilli, sliced in half lengthways

a bunch of marjoram (or oregano or thyme)

250ml extra virgin olive oil

6 tablespoons baby capers

650g fresh pappardelle or 450g dried pappardelle if you are vegan

250g fresh ricotta or vegan ricotta (I like the Tofutti brand)

 

Preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4. Arrange the tomatoes in a large, deep baking tray with the garlic, chilli and chopped marjoram. Pour over the oil (this may seem a lot, but trust me) and season well with salt and pepper. Use a slotted spoon to mix everything together. Place the baking dish in the middle of the oven for 90 minutes, shaking the pan every 20 minutes to prevent the tomatoes from catching and burning.

 

Once cooked and cooled a little, drain the tomatoes through a sieve suspended over a bowl to catch the oil. Pour the oil into a sterilised jar and set aside. Lift out the chilli and garlic and discard. Tip half of the tomatoes into a blender and blitz until smooth. Mix the blended tomatoes with the whole tomatoes in a very large, heatproof mixing bowl with lots of room for the pasta and keep warm in a low oven.

 

Pour 6 tablespoons of the reserved tomato oil into a medium frying pan and place over a medium heat. Spread the capers on a piece of kitchen paper and pat dry before tipping into the hot tomato oil. Be careful, as the oil will spit initially. Using a slotted spoon, move the capers around the oil and fry for about 4–6 minutes or until popped and crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on a plate lined with kitchen paper and set aside.

 

Fill a very large pan with water and place over a high heat. Season well with salt. When the water is boiling, cook the pasta for 2 minutes if fresh, or 1 minute less than packet instructions if dried. When the pasta is cooked, but still al dente, lift out with tongs and transfer to the warm tomato bowl. Toss the pasta in the sauce, adding a little of the starchy pasta water with a drizzle of the tomato oil.

 

Scatter over the ricotta and half the crispy capers. Put the rest in a bowl for the table and serve the pasta in warm bowls with lots of black pepper.

Roast Rainbow Carrots with Beans & Salsa Rustica

 

''This dish is all about glory cooking – cooking for adoration and praise. We all know a glory cook; they only cook all-out meals on a weekend, often on a barbecue or high-tech cooking device. They are rarely seen in the kitchen on a Wednesday night. They live for the oohs and ahhs as they carry their food to the table. A riot of colour looks super-impressive, so will undoubtedly result in sighs of adoration.

 

Salsa rustica is a flavour-packed herb salsa somewhere between salsa verde and pesto. I make the most of the leftover carrot tops to make it here, but if your carrots are without tops then some parsley will stand in.''

 

SERVES 4–6

 

FOR THE CARROTS

2 x 400g bunches of carrots with tops (a mixture of colours looks nice), scrubbed

olive oil, for drizzling

a few sprigs of rosemary

1⁄2 unwaxed lemon

 

FOR THE SALSA RUSTICA

1 shallot, very finely chopped

2–3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

50g pistachios, shelled

3 cloves of garlic, peeled

3 tablespoons capers

10 green olives, pitted

a small bunch of mint

a small bunch of parsley

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1⁄2 teaspoon honey or agave

1 unwaxed lemon

120ml extra virgin olive oil

 

FOR THE WHITE BEANS

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced 1 x 600g jar butter beans 2 bay leaves the juice of 1⁄2 unwaxed lemon

 

 

 

This dish is all about glory cooking – cooking for adoration and praise. We all know a glory cook; they only cook all-out meals on a weekend, often on a barbecue or high-tech cooking device. They are rarely seen in the kitchen on a Wednesday night. They live for the oohs and ahhs as they carry their food to the table. A riot of colour looks super-impressive, so will undoubtedly result in sighs of adoration.

 

Salsa rustica is a flavour-packed herb salsa somewhere between salsa verde and pesto. I make the most of the leftover carrot tops to make it here, but if your carrots are without tops then some parsley will stand in.

 

Preheat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7.

 

Break the carrot tops off with your hands. Discard all but a handful of the tops. Halve the carrots lengthways, then toss them in a roasting tray with enough olive oil to coat, and add the rosemary and some salt and pepper. Add half a lemon to the tray and place in the hot oven for 40 minutes until the carrots are soft to the point of a knife and catching at the edges. Keep the oven on, but reduce the heat to 160°C/140°C fan/gas 2.

 

While the carrots are roasting, make the salsa rustica. Put the shallots into a small bowl and cover them with the red wine vinegar, then let them macerate for about 20 minutes.

 

Place the reserved carrot top leaves in a small heatproof bowl and fill and boil the kettle. Pour the boiling water over the carrot tops for 10 seconds, then drain and run under cold water to preserve the bright green colour. You can skip this bit if you are short on time.

Squeeze out as much moisture from the carrot top leaves as you can, then place in a food processor with the pistachios, garlic, capers, olives, herbs, apple cider vinegar and honey or agave in that order.

 

Add the juice from half the lemon and pour in half the olive oil. Continue adding the olive oil, a little at a time (you may not need it all), pulsing until you have a chunky pesto consistency.

 

Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding a little more lemon if you like. Drain and stir in the shallots.

 

To make the white beans, place the roasting tray you used for the carrots on a hob and heat the oil and fry the garlic until it’s soft and fragrant, moving it around to make sure it doesn’t catch and burn. Add the butter beans, with a couple of tablespoons of the liquid from the jar, the bay leaves and a squeeze of lemon juice. Cook for 15 minutes, pushing down regularly with a wooden spoon to break down the beans to a smooth and creamy consistency, adding a little more liquid from the jar if needed. Season with lots of black pepper (you shouldn’t need any salt as the jarred beans are salty enough) and perhaps a squeeze more lemon juice.

 

Spread the white bean dip on a platter, arrange the carrots over the top and spoon over a quarter of the salsa rustica, with the rest in a bowl on the side for spooning.

Photography copyright © Issy Crocker