The Gobelsburg 2010 Gruner Veltliner Lamm displays the ester-filled aromatics, textural richness, succulent ripeness, and amplitude that always seems to accrue to this site at the foot of the Heiligenstein. And it is certainly tempting to see a source for its complexity and underlying structural stability – as proven by age-ability – in this site’s particular mixture of loess with eroded sandstone and granite. Whatever the source of the magic, magic is indeed in evidence again this year. Musk melon, snap pea, and peach in the nose introduce a palate whose sensation of peach and persimmon ripeness and whose textural opulence and creaminess belie the wine’s merely 13.5% alcohol.

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