This classic vintage marmalade was made by Fortnum’s in the 1920s for actor-manager Sir Nigel Playfair, who asked for a bitter, thick-cut preserve for his toast. We met his request with this – a strong, substantial marmalade with a deep flavour and lots of chewy peel. The colour of dark marmalade is often achieved by cooking the sugar for longer; but we make it with two sorts of brown sugar instead, to give colour without overcooking. The result is a rich, citrussy, not-too-sweet flavour. A cheering sight on one’s breakfast table.

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